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How To Shape and Groom Your Eyebrows Well-shaped and groomed brows can make your eyes look bigger and open up your face more naturally than a load of makeup will. Similarly, heavy brows can overpower your face. Shape your brows by plucking hairs from underneath, not from on top; that distorts their natural line. To determine the shape that best frames your eyes and face, the time honored method is to hold a pencil vertically alongside one nostril; the point where it meets your brow is a natural starting point. Tweeze stray hairs between brows beginning there. To find an end point, angle the pencil past the outer corner of your eye; it will hit your brow at the best end point. Pluck stray hairs beyond that spot, and from below the natural arch. Don't overpluck; pencil-thin brows look dated and leave you looking startled. You may want to have your brows shaped professionally one time, then all you have to do is tweeze to maintain their shape. Clear brow gel can help fix wiry brows where you want them.
*Hint: Tweeze after you shower. It'll be less painful. Eye Liner
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Use an eyeliner brush with powder because it gives better control and the ability to create a little or a lot---- of drama. Pencils tend to run on the skin and make it more difficult to get a smooth, clean line, of course, if you’re happy with a pencil, there’s no need to change.
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Line both top and bottom lids when you really want the eye to standout, of if the eye is small and needs to be opened up.
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If you want a more modern look line only one lid, it should be the tip.
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Get liner as close to the lashes as possible, and don’t line the inside rim of your eye. Extend the line from one corner of the eye to the other – never stop halfway.
HOW TO CHOOSE EYE LINER Which eye liner you use is a matter of the look you want and what's easiest for you. Liquid, gel and felt-tip-type pen liners create strong, well-defined lines. Powdery pencil and fat crayon liners are better when you want a softer, smudgier effect. Creamy ones create a strong line and can also be smudged into a smokier look. Many women find pencils easier to use than liquid, especially for everyday use when there's no time to fix mistakes.
*Hint: Chilling pencil liners in the refrigerator for a few minutes before sharpening makes them less breakable.
Which color? Dark brown is a universal- flatterer. Neutral grays, khaki and browns are also good staples. Black works on all but the fairest complexions, though it's dramatic and intense, and may not be right for everyday wear.
*Hint: It's generally best to apply liner after shadow. This gives you the choice of smudging it into the shadow or leaving it as a clean, distinct line.
HOW TO APPLY EYE LINER For creamy pencil, liquid, gel or pen, use the tip of the brush or point for the finest line, getting right at the base of the lashes. Angle the point for a heavier look. Extend the line from one corner of your eye to the other. (If that corner-to-corner look is too harsh, begin instead at the point near the inside corner of your lid, where your lashes begin.) Creamy pencil may then be smudged into a shadowy effect or left as a defined line.
For powdery pencil or crayon, begin either: at the corner of your eye; at the point on your lid where lashes begin; or at the outer third of your lid. (The starting point isn't that critical since you'll be smudging the line.) Smudge liner just enough to blur the edge, pushing color onto your lid and/or just towards the corners. Smudging can be done with the ring or pinky finger, a cotton swab or a sponge-tip shadow applicator. Don't tug.
Lining lower lids should be done with a light hand and never directly on the rim of the lid. Generally, liquid liner is too hard looking on lower lids. Stick with one of the softer effects. (If your upper lid is liquid-lined, your lower lid shouldn't be lined at all.)
Tips for Lashes:
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If your mascara becomes thick put it in warm water. That makes mascara thinner.
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Always use less mascara on lashes especially on lower lashes.
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If your lashes are shrubby or clumpy use a lash comb or separate.
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If you have dark circles, wrinkle skin, swollen skin don’t put mascara on lower lashes.
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Here are two approaches, your choice:
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Put on mascara before foundation and concealer, so you can use them to cover up any smudges.
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Put on mascara last, so lashes won't get dusted when you put on powder.
Either way . . .
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Twirl, don't pump the wand to coat it. Pumping allows in air, hastening dry-out.
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If you prefer the lightest possible touch, wipe the wand gently with a clean tissue to remove excess mascara before applying.
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Hold the brush horizontally for upper lashes. Start at the base and wiggle it up to the tips to maximize separation and lushness. Allow the first coat to dry completely, then repeat.
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Hold the brush vertically for lower lashes and sweep it lightly across them.
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If lengthening is your goal, fluff on an extra dash of lengthening mascara just at the tips of lashes.
Before applying mascara and using a clean lash curler:
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Clamp the curler at the base of lashes and hold it gently for up to 10 seconds.
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After #1, gently "walk" the curler up along the length of your lashes.
Repeat either step until you get the effect you want.
*Hint: Warming the curler for a moment with a blow-dryer helps to "set" the curl. Be careful - don't let the curler get too hot!
Eye shadow:
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If you have small eyes and you want to look bigger eyes use light shade of eye shadow.
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If you have big/protruding eyes and if you wouldn’t want to show them use dark shade of eye shadow.
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Apply little foundation to avoid creasing eye shadow.
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Use a good quality eye shadow brush and apply a light color of shadow on eye lids from lash line to brow.
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By using a fluffy brush apply medium color shadow on your lower lids from lash line to crease of eye.
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Then apply dark color as a liner along lash line
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Damp your eyeliner brush before using to make it last longer.
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Use colors that blend naturally together.
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For brown eyes: wear eye shadows shades like gold, mustard, charcoal, camel.
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For green eyes: wear eye shadow shades like espresso, chocolate, heather.
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For blue eyes: were eye shadow shades like egg plant, amethyst, cinnamon, rust.
HOW TO CHOOSE EYESHADOW Eyeshadow comes as powder, stick or cream; all three formulations come in matte, iridescent and satiny finishes. Powder goes on soft and often has the helpful advantage of being packaged in palettes of complementary shadows and highlighter. Sticks glide on fast and are a good choice for quick a.m. makeup routines, especially in neutral shades. The sliced angle of the stick in the tube makes it easy to cover your lid in one swoop.
*Hint: A thin layer of foundation beneath your shadow can boost its staying power and minimize creasing. Let foundation set for a few minutes before applying shadow.
HOW TO APPLY SHADOW For a simple wash of color, apply shadow from the inner corner of your lid up and across the entire lid to just above the crease.
Use highlighting shadow to brighten your eyes and lift the look of your whole face, whether or not you're wearing another shadow. It can be a lighter, complementary shade of the one you use on your lid, or an all-purpose pale ivory; frosted highlighters are great for p.m. Blend a touch of highlighter upwards from shadow on your lid, toward the arch of your brow and, if you like, extended out a bit --- but no further than the outer tip of your brow.
*Hint: To help prevent shadow from creasing, put foundation on your lids first, wait a second for it to penetrate, then apply shadow.
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